Frédéric Malle presents a olfactory portrait of Middle Eastern life

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The Desert Gems collection is a compilation of Frédéric Malle fragrances that draw inspiration from the captivating style and essence of Middle Eastern perfumery.

The story behind this collection unfolds through a conversation between long-time friends, Frédéric Malle and Dominique Ropion. Their discussion centered on the distinctive character of amber scent, which both found remarkably bold and alluring. Despite oud-based perfumes being out of fashion during the early 1990s, they secretly shared a passion for it. This shared guilty pleasure sparked their exploration of the Middle East and its culture, resulting in an uncompromising study represented by the Desert Gems collection. These fragrances form a unique olfactory depiction of Middle Eastern life, blending ancient and modern elements.

The Night, the first fragrance in the collection, emerged from Frédéric and Dominique’s journey to Dubai, where they immersed themselves in the mysterious and ancient world of local perfumery. Dominique, like a skilled French chef experimenting with local ingredients, applied his precision and technique to the region’s rich and deep aromas. The Night, now hailed as a masterpiece, beautifully combines the ‘north’ and ‘south’ of Middle Eastern perfumery by blending Oud and Rose. This fragrance showcases an impressive amount of natural oud, an expensive and vital ingredient that captures the essence of the Middle East. The success of The Night led to the creation of the Desert Gems collection, with each edition proudly featuring a generous amount of natural oud. Breaking away from the trend of merely invoking the precious material in name, these fragrances are named in Arabic, representing significant moments and deeply held values in Middle Eastern culture. If The Night celebrates the cool moments of sundown when the streets come alive, the second perfume in the collection, Promise, embodies the weight and significance of one’s word as a bond. Crafted by Dominique Ropion, Promise reverently explores trust and honor. It revolves around Turkish and Bulgarian rose, accentuated by apple, pink pepper, and clove, and anchored by a sensuous base of patchouli, cypriol, and labdanum. Dawn, the third edition in the series, is created by master perfumer Carlos Benaïm. It represents the sacred juncture before sunrise and the first prayers, infusing a natural oud core with refreshing notes of rose and lively pink pepper. Warmth is added by laudanum and vibrant frankincense, while oak moss provides a dark focal point. This fragrance, both diffuse and powerful, symbolizes the serenity and solitude of the day’s early moments. The latest addition to the collection is The Moon, crafted by promising young perfumer and Middle East specialist Julien Rasquinet. This fragrance pays homage to the region’s everlasting fascination with the moon and its profound romantic symbolism. Julien combines rose, frankincense, oud, and an abundance of sweet red fruits to create a softly opulent ode to the moon. Overall, the Desert Gems collection offers a captivating fusion of traditional and contemporary elements, presenting a one-of-a-kind olfactory portrait of Middle Eastern life.

Credit: PR

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