Nensi Dojaka AW22 at London Fashion Week: cuts, sheers and a vision of bold feminine

Nensi Dojaka came back with the upgraded version of her signature cuts, sheers and a vision of bold feminine. As the last year’s LVMH prize winner, she had the bar set higher than most and did not disappoint. Taking where she left off with the SS22 collection, Nensi introduced a darkened color palette, tightly constructed outerwear and more daring, eye-catching, glittery materials.

It was a safe move to open up with a mini, gently cut-out, black dress that speedily encompassed everything that the designer is about, leaving us thirsty for more daring garments to arrive. The wait was a matter of seconds. Every next dress pushed the concept further. We lived for the heavy velvet and detached sleeves. This season Dojaka’s silhouettes sliced straight through the banal with the hottest hacks possible. The light-beige piece featuring draped bottom and studded with sparkly sequins piece made us want to embody a modern ethereal romantic who daydreams, and slays the secret city’s club in the night.

Among the elusive lingerie-inspired pieces, Nensi debuted her take on outerwear in a form of a minimalistic puffer jacket with a corset-like element. During the current fashion worlds’ obsession with knitwear, it was a smart move to introduce them in a dusty orange tone contrasted with a transparent chest panel. Nensi Dojaka loves to experiment with contrast, from ethereal to electric, the way she composed silhouettes surely proves that she’s gained more confidence as a designer and let herself play with a wider range of elements. Dojaka’s girl was already a pretty cool one but now she’s got an extra edge. The leather sleeveless piece in combo with see-through adorable flared trousers/leggings showcased, so far hidden away, more alternative and unapologetic side to Nensi. We praise the construction here.

Nensi Dojaka perfected the art of subtle erotica. It’s sexy but not vulgar. In a blooming flower-like style, she keeps us rearranging petals in both a surprising and comfortable way. The full of garms Nensi’s design garden hosts many species that are transmuting into each other in almost holy harmony. The sensuality there feels effortless even though it makes our hearts race in excitement for the present and future explorations.

Dojaka is one of the fresh faces and the most powerful players in the young designer’s pool so it’s exhilarating to see her pushing inclusivity whenever given the chance. Casting-wise, the selection of models celebrated a variety of body shapes and skin colours. A standout was a pregnant model wearing a nude-illusion shiny gown, stealing the finale of the show. Stunning.

Nensi Dojaka, once again, showed up to prove to us that she’s got what it takes to serve the fantasy that’s about influence the next generation of elegant risk-takers.

Words by Alex Brzezicka

Images courtesy of Nensi Dojaka via Karla Otto